Keller 2001-2005
Keller 2001-2005
It was a terrific Keller-Vertical two weeks ago in Bochum with the host Uwe Bende, the winemaker Klaus-Peter Keller, the Ruhrgebiet-Boys and TomP.
"Keller is one of the most highly prized winery in Germany. The Keller family owns 16ha of vines in prime spots in Rheinhessen. There are 4 Grosse Gewächse. Two of the Rieslings are in Westhofen –
"Morstein" (south facing, but quite windy, with marl over limestone) and "Kirchspiel" (east-southeast facing, windless and quite warm, with marl and limestone). A third Riesling is in Dalsheim –
"Hubacker" (a sheltered spot of 4ha, south-southeast facing, on a 25–30 per cent slope, with loess, loam, marl and limestone).
The fourth wine Dalsheim Spätburgunder from the Grosses Gewächs "Bürgel" (a protected south-facing site with shell limestone and
terra fusca, predominantly planted to this red variety). Only small, select parcels of the Morstein, Kirchspiel, Bürgel and Hubacker vineyards are classified as Grosses Gewächs, the average age of the vines is 30–40 years old.
The Geheimwaffe (secret wapon) of the Keller family, however, is the extremly complex and powerful G-Max Riesling, which many experts believe to be the best (as well as the most expensive) dry German Riesling. It is made from the oldest vines in an unspecified
Grosses Gewächs site."
„Keller –Metamorphosis from Wonnegau to World Class“ by Stephan Reinhardt in THE WORLD OF FINE WINE
2001 Keller, "Hubacker" GG, Rheinhessen, Germany
Opulent, baroque nose. Creamy on the palate and an terrific complexity!
Dense, rich, lush flavors of peach and a lingering finish of tobacco.
What a depth! One of my favourite wines of the night.......
93-94
2001 Keller, "R" Spätlese trocken , Rheinhessen, Germany
Bouquet of blossoms. Very clear, straight, focussed on the palate.
Mint, cassis, gooseberry and a cool stylistic. I miss some minerality and
power, also the balance isn´t perfect
89
2002 Keller, Kirchspiel-"Turmstück" GG, Rheinhessen, Germany
Magic nose with elegant notes of herbs, pears, mint and earth.
Light clear minerality, blossoms and once again I miss power.
90
2002 Keller, "Hubacker" GG, Rheinhessen, Germany
Exotic bouquet. Fine fruit of apricots on the palate, in addition tobacco, camomile, citrus-fruits and very subtle structue. Mineral spiceness.
91-92
2002 Keller, "Morstein" GG, Rheinhessen, Germany
WOW, bombastic bouquet. Comlpex layers on the palate. Tobacco, apricots with a hint of exotic fruits and cinammon. An amazing juicy, rich fruit density! Powerful and compact in structure with a lingering finish. What a distinctive play between fruit and minerality combined with elegance and finesse,
that´s the magic of german Riesling and only Riesling can deliver that.......
95-96
2003 Keller, "R" Spätlese trocken , Rheinhessen, Germany
Blossoms, spicy, subtle and I miss some compelxity.
87
2003 Keller "Kirchspiel" GG, Rheinhessen, Germany
Very opulent bouquet. Typical for the hot vintage. Suprisingly he gains drive
on the palate. Fine fruit with citrus-fruits and pineapple. More mineral layers would have been nice. But showed a better performance than thought.
90
2003 Keller, "Hubacker" GG, Rheinhessen, Germany
Notes of lilac and orange. Typical representative of the vintage. Doesn´t convince me this night.
2003 Keller, "Morstein" GG, Rheinhessen, Germany
Bouquet of dried fruits. Flavors of Uhu, short and too alcoholic. No!
2003 Keller, "G-Max", Rheinhessen, Germany
Stunning nose......unblievable complex.
Bold, rich flavors of dried apricots, tobacco,herbs supported by a titanic minerality and a huge power. Brilliant balance and depth. The presence on the palate with this combination of a spectacular fruit and a titanic minerality drives you crazy! No doubt, this Riesling is competitve with the best counterparts in Burgundy.
It is made from the oldest vines in an unspecified
Grosses Gewächs site. Unfortunately only around 1000-1500 bottles are produced. This Riesling was the Best on a Keller-Vertical two weeks ago with attendance of the winemaker Klaus-Peter Keller at the home of our friend Uwe Bende. Try to find some bottles of 04 G-Max as he will surpass this brilliant 03.
99
2004 Keller, "RR" Spätlese trocken, Rheinhessen, Germany
Horny mineral bouquet. On the palate mineral-infused yellow fruits, herbs, citrus-fruits. Really deep huge minerality and framed with a crisp acidity. Better than 04 "Kirchspiel". Fantastic stuff! Great PQR.
92-93
2004 Keller, "Kirchspiel" GG, Rheinhessen, Germany
Great nose. Flavors of grapefruite and pineapple and a racy minerality.
Pure flavours and remarkable finesse.
90-91
2004 Keller, "Hubacker" GG, Rheinhessen, Germany
Dense, deep fruit. As always for "Hubacker" bold, generous fruit in the mouth. As always more the baroque-style of Riesling.
94+
2004 Keller, "Morstein" GG, Rheinhessen, Germany
Very closed at the moment. BIG potential.
93-95
2004 Keller, "G-Max", Rheinhessen, Germany
A Giant! Impossible to describe this wine. Everything is unique.......the minerality, blossoms like lilac, fruit, herbs, cassis etc. Needs several hours of decanting. Maybe the best ever produced dry Riesling in Germany. Next try in 5-10 years.
95+
2005 Keller, "RR" Spätlese trocken, Rheinhessen, Germany
Great wine! Flavors of camomille.
91-92
2005 Keller, "Kirchspiel" GG, Rheinhessen, Germany
Now, Kirchspiel can show its quality and extract every element of the terroir after the purchase in 1999. Mirabelle, herbs, blossoms and an elegant minerality combined with a finesse that I missed in the previous vintages. That´s for what the vineyard "Kirchspiel" is famous for...... pure elegant minerality, play and finesse.
92-94
2005 Keller, "Hubacker" GG, Rheinhessen, Germany
Lush fruit combined with a remarkable mineral spiceness. Tobacco. Need some time in the cellar.
93-94+
2005 Keller, "Morstein" GG, Rheinhessen, Germany
no notes, sorry!
2005 Keller, "G-Max", Rheinhessen, Germany
Great!


05.04.07